A Travellerspoint blog

Tuesday - a "Grand Tour"

Exploring the West coast of Rhodes

sunny 40 °C
View Rhodes on SirRogue58's travel map.

After morning tea, a cereal breakfast and wash and shave it was time to hit the road (mid day). Today we decided to explore the West coast up from Monolithos. To get to the cross island road we had to go south and the last time we did that we got lost, but not this time. After going through the villages of Monolithos and Siana , we were in new territory.

According to the guide book Skala Kameriou is “a pleasant place to relax” so we made a beeline to this fishing village for our lunch. Just outside we spotted Kritinia castle, which we thought we would visit after lunch. The place we decided to eat was right by the sea with good views, but I don’t think that justified the prices for their fish. Lobster €75 a kilo and other fish around €55 a kilo. I decided I’d have a pork chop with chips for 7 and Sue had tuna salad for 5.50 We thought we would have some desert too but after the garlic bread they gave and the lunch we were too full. Both Sue and I needed the bathroom before we set off again and inside the restaurant there were a number of urns, which must have been lost with ship, wrecks and brought up from the depths by the fishermen in their nets. Oh another point. The toilets were the only ones we had come across with seats apart from where were staying.

We then walked along the quay to where the fishing boats were. I spotted a fishing boat where the crew were working on the nets and the captain was sleeping in the wheelhouse with his feet out of the window. A real Kodak moment but I think he heard us giggle and realised and next we knew he had his feet back in. There was also an elderly chap fishing and as we were there, caught a keeper. Also whilst he was fishing an even bigger one jumped out of the water after the tiddlers that were attracted to his bait.

It was now time to leave and make our way to the castle we had seen on the way in. It was not far but on the way we were flagged down by an old lady who gave us a piece of paper explaining that she sells drinks and fruit to visitors as she does not get paid for keeping the castle ruins clean. Hmmmm sounds familiar to the person who was supposed to be collecting money for parking outside Bristol Zoo for 20 years when in fact he had nothing to do with the Zoo. Anyway we paid €3 for 2 cans and they were very welcome too when we got up into the ruins. It seems that the Crusader Knights who built these castles always wanted to build them high up, never somewhere low like by a beach. Anyway the views were good and Valentino tried out his singing voice again.

As we started to flag with the heat we decided it was time to move on to the next port of call, Ancient Kameiros a once thriving Doric city, which included a 6 century BC temple. This place reminded us of Pasteum in Italy as the houses seemed so small, most just 1 room. But Pasteum was definitely more impressive. Here we saw the biggest lizards that we had seen in the wild, but they were too quick to photograph. After exploring and taking more photos we needed the refuge of the car and the air conditioning.

Now we were on to our final destination, Moni Filermou. A large cross on a hill which we spotted illuminated on the way from the airport on our arrival. But first we had to find our way to it. We passed the power station we had spotted a few days earlier and then we entered one village and were surprised when we came out the other end to find the airport! We knew we were near it but didn’t realise there would be a village right by the Arrivals hall! Eventually we found the road we were looking for and made our way to the top of the hill where there was a welcome kiosk selling cold drinks. Whilst having our cokes there were other people there and some locals who were playing backgammon. There were also a lot of peacocks and peahens. We walked along a tree lined path where equally spaced along there was also the Stations of the Cross. Sue was impressed when I started to explain what each of them was then I lost all credibility when I said there were 12 stations but in fact there were 14. I was never a good catholic hahaha. At the end of this path was an 18m (59ft) cross, which you could climb up inside and then go out on the arms to admire the view. There was a sign saying that you went in there at your own risk and after a couple of steps up the metal spiral staircase I knew why. The stairs were creaky and some didn’t seem strong enough to take any weight. But we persevered and made our way up. We could see both the West coast and East coast of Rhodes but could not see the city of Rhodes, as there was a hill in the way. After a short while Sue got a touch of vertigo. Maybe she didn’t trust the Greek/Italian builders of new even though the builders of old (2 thousand years ago) still had buildings standing. We had to wait a while before we could make our way down as there were more people coming up I’m not sure if this made Sue feel worse but eventually we made our way down. When we got out we walked around and I must admit I was surprised that we could see some of the reinforcing bars poking through the sides!!!!

Time to make our way back to Pethkos. We went back down the way we came but when we got to the bottom we re not sure which way to go as we had guessed the way to the bottom of the hill. There were no signs so we guessed again. But it seemed we were heading into Rhodes and even though we would have found our way from there we didn’t want to go that far so Sue suggested we called into a garage for directions. The woman had problems like I do at times pointing with her right hand and saying left hahaha but we understood what she meant. We had missed the turning to go across the island, which must have been back by the airport, but eventually we came to the traffic lights that the garage attendant told us we had to turn right at. Along this road we came a cross a large discount supermarket where we thought we may be able to get some real meat to make a meal but again we were disappointed as the meat didn’t look that special or maybe we just wanted to eat out again. We did buy some ouzo though hehehe Eventually we were across and back on the road we recognised.

After a while we got back to the complex at about 8:30 just as it was getting dark. We showered and got ourselves ready and by 10 we were out for our dinner. We had decided we were going to the Two Brothers Grill, which we had seen the other night for traditional Greek food. I asked Sue if she wanted to drive and she took the challenge. And made the same mistakes I did when I first drove the car. Not enough revs and trying to pull away in 2nd hahaha. We eventually got into the main strip but could find nowhere to park apart from round the back on the road out of Pefkos; luckily there was a path through so we didn’t have to walk back around.

We did a quick comparison of prices before going in to the Two Brothers and thought they were ok. Once sat down with a bottle of water for Sue and large Mythos for me we studied the menu for our Greek delight. Oh!!! Nothing Greek on the menu except Greek Salad!!!! We asked the young waiter and he said they didn’t do Greek, just international. Hmmm maybe tomorrow night we’ll have Greek. Sue chose Chicken fillet with mushrooms rice and oven potatoes and I had the stuffed Chicken fillet stuffed with mushrooms bacon cheese and topped with cheese with the same sides. Mmmmmm both were yummy so we had nothing to complain about really. When the main waiter (one of the uncles of the 2 brothers) asked if everything was ok we said it was even though we wanted Greek food but he said they did do it, it was on a blackboard at the front which we failed to notice and I think the other waiter didn’t know about.

After our meal we asked for the bill and were given thin slices of apple in raspberry syrup and 2 glasses of ouzo (?). Once these had been finished off and the bill paid they closed up, as we were the last customers to leave. We then popped into a supermarket on next to the path to the car and bought our family gifts. Then it was back to the complex for a quick B&C and bed.

Posted by SirRogue58 07:56 Archived in Greece Tagged siana ancient_kameiros monolithos skala_kameriou moni_filermou Comments (0)

Monday - Another day by the pool

people in their 50’s, (us), acting like kids

sunny 40 °C
View Rhodes on SirRogue58's travel map.

After a good nights sleep in a cool bedroom we got up and were having a cup of tea sat on our terrace listening to one of the music stations on the TV when suddenly it went quite. The TV and all the other appliances did not work but strangely most of the lights did. After checking with reception we were told it was a power cut and that the lights were on an emergency circuit. The power was not off for long and after we’d finished reading we went to the pool and read and dozed. At one time the pool was empty and we played volley ball must have looked strange seeing a couple of people in their 50’s acting like kids. When we had finished more people got in to play their ball games When it go too hot we decided to go back to the room where the air conditioning had been on to cool down and relax. On the way back we popped into the supermarket where we bought all we needed for our ham, cheese, tomato and onion rolls for lunch. I think the sun and heat had drained us as we both fell asleep on the lounge beds. When we woke up we watched The Kingdom DVD. I thought we were going to go out for dinner so I had a coke and Sue had a B & Coke but as the film went on we would not have been out until later after showering and getting ready so we decided to eat by the pool again so I joined Sue and had a B & Coke too. I enjoyed my starters of creamed mushrooms and Sue had garlic bread with melted cheese. For main course I had stifado chips & salad Sue had Greek omelette, chips & salad.

It was Magician night again, and as there seemed to be more people this week in the resort, we spotted him at a table behind us performing his card tricks for a couple. We had decided last ==Monday== whilst we waited for the performance that it was an old fat guy who was sitting in the restaurant area but as it turned out it was a young guy & then 2 of them. We decided not to bother to wait for a personal performance, as it was too noisy and too hot, also we had not covered ourselves with anti mozzie cream. So it was back to the room for a fairly early night.

Posted by SirRogue58 07:53 Archived in Greece Tagged pool rhodes pefkos Comments (0)

Sunday - Rhodes Old Town

Visiting the streets that crusaders walked.

sunny 40 °C
View Rhodes on SirRogue58's travel map.

We decided that we would have a morning by the pool and then go to Rhodes in the afternoon so we would see Rhodes at night too. Whilst by the pool I dozed and when I woke up Sue was in the pool talking with one of the Psycho Ville family As it was so hot we needed to freshen up after the pool and by the time we’d got dressed again it was almost 3 so we drove to the Beach café for a salad and from there, on to Rhodes.

We’d filled up with petrol again just outside of Lindos and then made our way to Rhodes. The drive there was uneventful until we got to Rhodes its self. The streets became more narrow and the traffic thicker, it was the 1st time we really came across traffic lights too. We kept heading towards the signs for the old town and eventually came to the old town walls about 4pm. We were told that there was free parking in certain places but as we didn’t know exactly where we were we decided to drive around the outside.

Eventually we came to a car park and decided that we’d pay as we could be driving around for ages until we found the free places. But when looking for the charges we found that it was free on Sundays.

Across the street from where we parked were a couple of boats selling sponges and crafts made from shells. Seemed strange that the shop was moving and we were not.

After a quick loo stop (good job it wasn’t a medieval loo) we started to explore old Rhodes. The 1st building we came across after going through the town walls was the archaeological museum, which is housed in the Gothic Knights Hospital, completed in 1481. Once we got our bearings we made our way to the Street of the Knights, which is lined by various inns of the knights. These were inns for each of the countries the knights came from to meet in. None of these inns were open and I don’t think they were eating/drinking places now. Some were now used for government/official use. At the top of the street was Palace of the Grand Masters. Which was worth a visit and Valentino got another outing after we checked for security cameras. It seems that a lot of the adornments here came from Kos. After spending quite a while in here we decided it was time for a drink and we found a small taverna close by. I think that was why the price was so high. €5.4 for 2 cans of coke!!!!! We then made our way down one of the main streets, which were full of gift/leather and jewellery shops, oh, and Tavernas. We did think about going up the Bourg Clock Tower but €5 was too much and they didn’t have a lift hahaha. As we walked down the street it seemed so familiar to Crete. We were stopped by one elderly gent who asked if we would like to eat at his restaurant and after a little conversation we found out that his son owned Fuse bar in Pethkos. We declined his offer and eventually got to Plateia Ipprokratous the central square with a medieval fountain. So many restaurants with so many waiters trying to catch your attention

Eventually we were persuaded into one and climbed the rickety stairs to the outside balcony. Here I had Penn Pasta with a tomato sauce and Sue had Greek pasta (very creamy). We had chosen these and had a drink of just water as this area was a tourist trap. We enjoyed watching the waiters trying to catch the attentions of people across the square and also our meals which we swapped ½ way through so we could try each others. By now the son had gone down and we walked out of the old town to the car after 1st admiring the large yachts in the harbour. The drive back was ok though I was a little worried about getting out of Rhodes with its one way streets but Lindos was signposted quite early on and the journey was ok.

When we got back to the complex, we decided to pay for the air conditioning for the rest of our stay as Sue had been bitten so many times (over 40) by the mosquitoes and also we were so hot in the night. €60 poorer we were looking forward to a Mythos by the pool but the bar was packed and noisy so we went to the room for our B&C and played cards where I thrashed Sue.

Posted by SirRogue58 07:50 Archived in Greece Tagged rhodes rhodes_old_town Comments (0)

Saturday - Day by the pool

Busy doing nothing

sunny 40 °C
View Rhodes on SirRogue58's travel map.

Today we decided to have breakfast by the pool I had the Full Monty and Sue had boiled egg and toast. Then it was off to the sun bed by the pool. Reading and relaxing. When it got too hot we bought some rolls and some cheese, ham & tomatoes for lunch and had a siesta watching "Once Upon a Time in America". Later we went into Pefkos for dinner and once finding somewhere to park decided to eat at Coliseum where were had yummy Lamb shanks and fries. Oh and our first sight of a cockroach (real one).

As it was cooler now we called into a few “supermarkets” to see what was on offer. Then back to the complex and bed.

Posted by SirRogue58 07:47 Archived in Greece Tagged pefkos Comments (0)

Friday - Catching the Sunrise

People watching and character assassination

sunny 40 °C

At 5am the alarm went off and I was up and out in 10 mins. I was not going to miss the sunrise a 2nd time. As I got the car the bar by the pool had its shutters down and the barman was just going home. As I drove out of the complex I saw a girl who obviously was visiting our complex, and at bar closing time, decided it was time to go back to her place.

I arrived at Lindos in about 15 mins whilst it was still dark and drove back and forth along the cliff road before deciding where the best place to view the sunrise would be. Once I found what I thought would be a suitable place (some waste land) I parked up waited listening to Moby on the CD player. The sky slowly started to lighten and I got some shots with the castle/acropolis lit up with the sky behind. Then at 6 the lights went off so I got some different shots with it in silhouette. The morning colours had now gone but now I wanted to catch the sun coming up. I drove to the car park on the cliff top as I had a feeling the sun would come up behind the castle. After a few mins it started. A small bit of bright red peeping over the horizon. With camera on tripod I got my shots and almost got the perfect shot of a “V” of birds flying in front but unfortunately I had a long exposure for the depth of field so they were blurred. I reset my camera for a faster speed and waited a little while but the opportunity did not arise again. Time to go back to Sue and bed.

By 7 I was back and in bed reading & dozing for a while.

As we had had a long day driving, the day before and also walking up and down steps we thought we’d relax by the pool reading and sunbathing. Oh and people watching.

Good job people don’t know what we say about them hahaha. There was the Psycho Ville family, which looked like a mother with 2 adult sons and daughter. All very large and we decided that the eldest son was fathered by someone not there, but the others were… Hmmmm closely related. Then there were the Scandinavian swingers we don’t know where they were from but the woman always seemed to be topless. And then there was the mother and daughter The Voodoo Queen and her princess daughter. The mother was black but the daughter was white with blonde hair. Well it turned out that the Psycho Ville family were grand mother, mother and father and son from Manchester. The Voodoo: we think the mother was mixed race and her husband who we say later was white. The daughter I’m sure had dyed hair but Sue thinks it was a wig as her hair was so thick. As for the Swingers I think they found another couple and didn’t leave their room again, as we had not seen them since. After a few hours the heat got to us and we went back to our room for some lunch. Well lunch and drinks. After a few drinks and playing cards we were in no fit state to drive anywhere.

So I rummaged in the fridge and decided we had enough for a toasted sandwich. Then it was off to bed.

This was the day we forgot. (And writing about this time was confusing too)

Posted by SirRogue58 07:46 Archived in Greece Tagged rhodes lindos Comments (0)

(Entries 6 - 10 of 16) « Page 1 [2] 3 4 »